The next step is to adjust the contrast and brightness levels
of your monitor.
My recommendation is that
the brightness should be adjusted so that the inner square is
only just visible (as an aid I suggest that you squint when
you make this adjustment). If the on screen image looks a
shade dark after this stage donít be too concerned, it will
be corrected during the gamma adjustment stage. In fact, I
have found that unless the screen is dim (at this stage), then
the likelihood of over dark prints is increased significantly,
so be warned!
the brightness and contrast have been adjusted we move on to
the monitor phosphor selection.
We can either accept
whatever is offered up in the window, not a good idea, you
should select Trinitron or P22-EBU, both of which are
based upon standard monitors. Although, it is fairly widely
accepted that Trinitron is probably the better starting point.
The amount of adjustment required in the steps that follow
will vary, depending upon how far your monitors' actual
behavior deviates from this initial profile.
You can also choose "Custom" and insert our own values; normally you
would need to have obtained the values from the manufacturer,
not and easy task, and pointless. Don't forget that using the manufacturers ACTUAL
ICM profile in Photoshop 5.5 is fraught with
Custom Phosphor data
Next we adjust the gamma slider (I suggest that you stick with
the single gamma option initially, just to get the hang of
things). When adjusting this slider I recommend that you sit
back about 3 feet from the monitor and squint your eyes. When
the inner square matches the outer patterned frame, stop.
Choose your desired gamma (usually 2.2 for Windows) and then
fine tune the gamma slider. If all has gone well your screen
should now be reasonably bright, but not to bright.
A common misconception
is that the gamma must be set to 2.2. Please note that there
is no absolute requirement that the gamma be set to this
value. If the user prefers to select a gamma value of 1.8 then
that is perfectly reasonable choice, it is also the case that
many actually prefer to calibrate their monitors to a gamma of
1.8 when CMYK prints are the final output medium. Mac users
will generally find 1.8 is the more appropriate choice for
their systems since it is apparently the native gamma of Mac
monitor. I use both Mac and PC and find that I personally
prefer Gamma 2.2 is the most appropriate.
become confident in using the single gamma option you can try
the 3 channel option and balance each colour channel
independently, this actually the best way. The procedure for
balancing the inner and outer squares is the same as described
above, although many people find it difficult at first to get
the "green" square right.
If you are in any
doubt about the accuracy of the "Hardware White Point"
you selected on the monitor control panel at the beginning
then it might be better to
use the "Measure" option (ensure that the room
lights are off for this adjustment).
Adobe Gamma Monitor
Colour Temperature Adjustment
The idea of the colour temp screen is to get the centre
square as near neutral grey as possible. Keeping a Kodak grey
card to hand can be helpful, but not essential.
For the "Adjusted White Point" it is normally accepted
practice to choose "6500K"if using a PC or Mac. As was the case with
gamma, it is not essential that we follow conventional wisdom
when it comes to setting the White Point of your monitor. I
have found a more appropriate choice to be "Same as
Hardware", since this doesn't actually require the
video card to make any colour table adjustments (see Real
Word Photoshop 5).
Preferred choice for
Adjusted White Point
of the monitor calibration process is to "Save"
your new monitor profile. Remember this is now the profile
that defines your "Monitor Space" and is used by
all your software applications, including most scanner
software, whether be it be "Standalone" or a